4th Dimension – Dynamic Knit
4th dimension is a Global design local manufacturing initiative of Marina Toeters, by-wire.net, Utrecht, The Netherlands and Jesse Asjes, jsssjs Product Design Providence RI, USA
Born out of the pleasure of working together and complementary skills (dimension 1) and both feeling the urge to share knowledge (dimension 2), but living on each side of the ocean (dimension 3) we were forced to research how to design and develop complex innovative e-garments (dimension 4) on distance. Find here all our dynamic experiments.
Marina Toeters operates on the cutting edge of technology and fashion design. Through her business by-wire.net she stimulates collaboration between the fashion industry and technologists for a relevant fashion system and supportive garments for everyday use. In this development process she combines technology of different firms (Holst Centre, Adafruit, Parallax) towards a coherent sportive and appealing fashion collection that has the ability to inspire both, the fashion and technology world.
Jesse Asjes is a developer of wearable, innovative and technical knitwear products. Using professional techniques and machines for maximizing the potential of her materials, she pursues high aesthetic quality in everything she produces, both in her solo work and in collaboration with research companies, designers and fashion labels.
Sharing knowledge is core of our research and design processes. Jesse is an educator of design and knitting methodologies via hands-on coaching and workshops. She is an expert in the use of industrial, computer-controlled Stoll knitting machines, and uses her knowledge of product design to forge connections between industry and designers by providing tailored guidance.
As a teacher, coach and researcher, Marina works for the fashion department in the Utrecht school of Arts, textile department at Saxion University for applied science and industrial design faculty in Eindhoven University of Technology, all in The Netherlands.
Dynamic knit
We question how we can design complex products global and manufacture locally. From flat fabric to dimensional to inter changeable shape shifting garments. Because the inventive clothe design in combination with the interactive system the fabric shapes very organic.
Nowadays it is quite possible to deploy textiles as sensors and thus avoid avoiding traditional hard sensors. Examples include measuring or sensing position, distance, pressure and stress. In fact with more than a decade of experience in this field we contributed to the development of advanced textile products. Often it is advantageous to let sensing and actuation go hand in hand, similar to the theory of ecological perception, as research focus was on sensing. Actuation (for movement) so far turned out more difficult, however.
Tailored kinetic knits through industrial knitting and electrical components is a technology driven research and design project. We created dynamic and responsive knits for wearables. Knitting has the capability of being shaped and manipulated directly on the machine and this given fact provides Jesse Asjes an unlimited source of investigation. She will show her inside view on the value of multidisciplinary collaborations with experts/engineers in the field of fashion technology and interior architecture. The collection is complemented by other advanced technologies like the Lumolift, Sense from Hello, and printed foil technology of Holst Centre.
Peer movement
But why are all these developments needed? We think that garments can do so much more for us than they currently do. Movement in garments can motivate the wearer towards a more active lifestyle. We think that society can benefit from experiencing work behaviour as a sport activity. Sportive garments that give comfort and even streamline can support you in this. Show the world that you are a continuous sportsperson in order to achieve well being. Moving garments motivate people to move, but moving people motivate other people even more. So what if we can animate the garments towards the movement of others? So by sensing movement via a garment, activate other garments and back to the first garment that also starts to move: Actuating peer movement!
4th dimension – Dynamic knit is an ongoing collection evolving into garments of actuating peer-movement by shape changing and activated fabric. Working with motion sensors in garments measuring activation which translates into actual movements of garments on the body of your peers.
Each garment separately explained:
4D Dynamic Knit Bra • is a collection of tailored, dynamic kinetic knits through industrial knitting and electrical components designed for wearable technology. Knitting has the capability of being shaped and manipulated directly on the machine, as demonstrated by the knit bra structure, using different direct methods of knit techniques to form a substantial amount of support.
4D Dynamic Knit Jumpsuit • An electronic, interactive knit system actuated peer-movement by shape changing and activated fabric. The motion sensors embedded in the garment measure activation which translate into actual dynamic movements, organically morphing its shape. The motor attached around the neck is concealed by a specifically engineered 3d printed case, the system winds chord from a point of tension attached inside the suit, manipulating the shape of the structure with a symmetrical, organic motion. Re-Skin Silicone sport tape is used as a connection method to secure the jumpsuit to the body.
4D Dynamic Knit Neopixel skirt • Knitted drawstring skirt, Neopixel lights secured onto an under layer of knit. The nature of the mohair textile and control of distance of the led lighting system beneath and material above creates a soft ambient glow.
4D Dynamic Knit Sleep Cap • sleep censoring cap with a knitted pocket to integrate ‘sense by hello’ sleep improving technology. A system that tracks and monitors your sleep and circadian rhythm.
4D Dynamic Knit Shorts • Knitted mohair structure designed with a pocket to easily integrate the Lumo Lift posture monitoring system.
This collection is presented during the 10th year anniversery of Holst Centre in Amsterdam, The Netherlands. Complementairy to the dynamic knit collection we presented there also Cliff from Mohamad Zairi Baharom, Pied de Pulse made with Professor Loe Feijs and Gold Dynamic Skirt made with Matthijs Vertooren and Giorgia Presti.
Of course we added our golden oldies made with Holst Centre also in this show: The red and blue ECG shirt and the Bright Jacket. All these pieces include the printed foil technique of Holst Centre.
